Drinking pints in Paris (and why you should stick to wine)

Slowly but surely Paris has succumbed to the superiority of the pint – but it's usually not the best thing to drink on your visits to this great city.

Photo by Salvatore Favata on Unsplash

It was one of those things that you don’t notice at first. Even after repeat visits to see friends and family, I can’t say that I’d noticed anything especially different over the years.

And then, all at once, the moment I moved to Paris I could see it everywhere. Everyone was drinking pints.

There was a spot of news recently you may have seen, about how beer consumption has overtaken that of wine in France (more generally) for the first time on record.

Of course, there’s been talk of declining wine consumption in France for years now. Frankly, I still see a great number of people drinking wine on a regular basis and there’s no shortage of wine bars and wine shops in this town.

But when you were once encouraging people to only drink two litres a day and giving cider to children, I suppose even a small amount of restraint puts a huge dent in the figures.

I don’t really care about getting into another ‘oooh, wine is in peril!’ spiel, however. And the news about increased beer consumption isn’t that surprising either.

No. What has really caught my imagination is how France seems to be moving to drinking pints.

In the before times

Photo by Amie Johnson on Unsplash

This may not seem like a big deal but, to the very best of my knowledge, pints are not a French thing – mostly.

There are expressions for larger pours – ‘un pot’ or ‘une chope’ for pint-sized measures. But these are largely from northern and eastern France bordering those beer-swillers in Belgium and Germany.

From the Belgian tradition, a lot of French beers also tend to be on the strong side – 6-8% – best drunk in smaller glasses.

But even for your more sessionable, 4-5% ‘blonde’ or ‘blanche’, the basic serve has always been the ‘démi’.

This was the case when I first lived in France nearly 20 years ago, but now I’m not so sure.

Scan the rows of tables of the terraces on a sunny afternoon or evening now and it’s all a glister with beautiful golden pint jars from end to end.

Obviously I’m pleased that France has finally seen the wisdom of the superior beer format.

Part of me even entertains the idea that this trend has been driven by all those thousands of young French people who’ve spent time living in London and brought the habit back with them.

It may not be so fanciful.

But is it the best thing to be drinking in Paris?

Happy hours and €10 pints

Do not expect a cheap beer at anywhere that looks like this. (Photo by Reza Bina on Unsplash)

The price of a beer in Paris can be hard to pin down. Stay away from highly touristy areas and it can be perfectly affordable.

Throw in some happy hour pricing and pints at €5 – sometimes less – can be found. Mention this in some circles, however, and you get some mutterings about it being cut with water – but maybe it’s just the quality of the beer.

And certainly, for those prices you’re not getting something artisanal and lovingly crafted. The big brewers have their hold on Paris just as they do elsewhere – though those beers have their place on a hot day.

On the other hand, if you think a trip to Paris means a holiday from London beer prices, be prepared for disappointment.

Pints at €7 is more usual. And if you’re in some central locations then anywhere from €8-10 is possible. I’m sure there are probably some horror stories about pints in excess of €10 out there as well.

And here’s the rub of it. Drinking beer in Paris is fine if you live there and know where to get a good price.

But for your average, once-in-a-while visitor, you’re really better off sticking to wine. The price per glass is much cheaper than the UK, as is the price per bottle.

Where the wine flows like beer

I go a bit back and forth on the merits of Paris vs London as ‘wine capitals’. London has the greater luxury of choice and variety for sure but for sheer ease of consumption and price Paris is miles better.

If we’re all being honest, London wine bars are terrible value for money*. What’s the starting price for a glass of wine these days? £9? And that’s if you’re lucky – it’s probably north of £12 for something decent, with bottles over £50 or more.

Here Paris has London beat without breaking a sweat. Decent glass of wine – easily found for €6. Bottles – can be as reasonable as €20. If you want a holiday from London booze prices, it’s wine you’re after.

There are… pitfalls to ordering wine in Paris too of course.

Who can forget the heartwarming story last year of Parisian waiters swindling customers with cheaper alternatives to whatever had been ordered.

And there’s plenty of very middle of the road establishments with offerings and prices that are particularly bad ‘rapport qualité-prix’.

But, again, many of these are in the tourist traps at the centre of the city or Montmartre.

Avoid the sorts of places bedecked in ludicrous garlands of fake flowers (influencer bait set-dressing) and with a few recommendations and a good nose for a likely looking joint, all the pleasures of lashings of good wine can be yours for a reasonable sum.

After all, did you really come to Paris to drink lager?

VPQ

*Yes, I know it’s all the fault of tax and rent, it’s still appallingly expensive and once you move away and see how much cheaper it can be there’s no getting away from the fact.